Loreto Aprutino and Penne

I finished reading the book "Wild" by Cheryl Strayed about her 1,100 mile hike from California to Washington and it gave me the itch to climb, to walk for miles, to stroll till my feet hurt. I googled mountain towns in Abruzzo, because Abruzzo is peppered with the sweetest mystical towns magically built on the top of a mountain. All of these mountain towns were built for protection from intruders. Think about it, if you teamed up with your neighbors to protect yourself and your children from people who would want to come take your couch, beat your dog, eat your food and carry your daughters off to the darkness never to return where would you build your house? At the tip top of a mountain where you could see the bad guys coming, boil some oil and pour it down the mountain as they came, right? Well, that is how it was done back in the day and a pretty good idea, in my humble opinion. I think the size and dimensions of these mountain towns are human scaled and were we should still build now. They are communities, forced to support each other and maintain a rich history.

  San Stefano di Sessanio was one of my top picks. It was built in the 11th century then largely abandoned by a wave of immigration to the US and now only has 100 or so inhabitants. The roads to get there are deteriorated and dangerous since the town is mostly a ghost town. I think it is a perfect place, in theory to blog or write a book and herd a group of sheep. My husband rationally explained that it is really built on a cliff and impossible to reach by car. He sensibly picked Loreto and Penne to check out. Both are mountain towns where people still live and in good modern standards.

Off we went. Over the river and through the winding roads of Abruzzo we went. 

A new house being built of stone and rock. I bet this will exist long after the newest homes being built in the USA.

A romantic abandoned country house

A country pick-up truck

A Sheppard dog going for a stroll. He knew where to trod and when to watch out.

I think Abruzzo is one of Italy's best kept secrets. Its majestic hills covered by a blanket of olive groves are a relaxing and sweet setting. Abruzzo has gorgeous terrain perfect for gardening and dreaming. I'm kind of glad foreigners with money haven't started to buy up the villas here the way they have infiltrated Tuscany. It makes the towns in Abruzzo retain their original charm and character. The people continue to speak a dialect of their own that goes back centuries, a dialect I don't understand at all on Italian terms but beautiful in its own right. 

Loreto was gorgeous. We walked up to the 9th century castle for a good view of the valley below. How does a castle remain being built in the 9th century? Rocks, mortar and cement my friend. I think American contractors have a simple rule to learn to make American architecture last lifetimes and become a real investment: build in stone. As the good book says "The wise man built his house upon the rock." So, back to Loreto. I'm in speechless love. I will let the pictures speak for themselves.

Loreto on a hill

The hilly streets are for people with sure footing. Their 9th century construction is not stroller or wheelchair friendly. 

Castello Chiola, built in the 9th century is a private home but partially a restaurant and 4 star hotel. Now that is a smart way to pay off your property tax!

If you ever stay in Abruzzo, stay in this castle. It has a breathtaking view!

Perfect rooftops for my cats to jump.

The fire escape of the castle.

 That leads me to another point. Do you know why there are not that many fires in Italy? Well, the houses are made of stone and the rooftops of terra cotta so that eliminates a risk. Seriously America, wake up and build in stone. We can do it! And also, while we are at it, let's start using the bidet. It will make life longer and smell better. Just saying.

I love the feeling seeing over the rooftops to the valley and rooftops beyond. It makes me feel like a bird.

Could you hike your couch all the way here? Me neither but it is fo'sale and I would build a couch from scratch if I bought this gem with a view.

Abruzzo is famous for it's world class olive oil. 

I adore old doors

And keyholes

The walls here are 2 feet thick. Now that, my friend, is an investment! Forget about 2 inch ply wood.

As I was taking this picture, a chiwawa and I met and both screamed in terror. Oh to be shocked in a silent moment. Poor chiwawa, he dug his nails into the rock, jumped 3 feet and flew in the opposite direction. 

Also for sale. I'm so up for it.

These roads were made for horses so now the cars are made the sizes of horses to fit through the teeny tiny streets. This one's name is Betsy. She's shmart.

If you buy one of those houses, you can still have it renovated. I should become a realtor, put a bow-tie on and sell these amazing little properties.

This Fiat 500, the size of a golden retriever, could be yours if the price is right.

 

Then, the adventurous duo decided to drive the winding and harrowing scary roads over the hills to Penne. My anxiety scaled the roof of the car as we whipped around bends and curves without railings. So I spent most of the ride with clammy hands and closed eyes not taking pictures.

 It made me hungry to think of baked penne. Penne is a much larger city than Loreto but equally cool. Let's take a look, shall we?

Welcome to Penne, home of Penne

 Actually, Penne was founded in the 300 century BC by Italic tribes called Vestini. They were later conquered, despite living on a mountain, by Romans and later down the road became part of the Kingdom of Naples and Sicily.

Which way to look?

This picture reminds me of my grandfather's garden for some reason.

Ziti, the cat of Penne. 

Our legs were not up to climbing yet another hilly street.

You see what I mean about the streets being built for horses and not cars? 

Check out the detailed lace/rock of the building. Beautiful.

These are on the sides of buildings to tie up your horse. 

The schedule for this week of Easter festivities are on the entrance of the church. 

A Sheppard dog taking a nap from work.

So that is it for today. I feel strangely intrigued and attracted by these Abruzzo mountain towns. Each one has its own sub-dialect and way of behaving that binds the people one to another. The people from each town all look similar, probably because they didn't have many genetic options when choosing a mate over the centuries so all came out related in some distant way. "You got teeth? Five? Ok, I can deal with that. Let's get hitched. You are still a better deal than the 50 year old butcher who wants to trade a horse for me."

He traded 2 camels in exchange for me and 2 Main Coon cats.

 I wish to know the history of how they started. It is just so darn cool that they built on a mountain centuries and centuries ago and the towns are still there. They did this without Internet, TV, modern engineering, running water or electricity and see how beautiful the cities are. I think, we, in modern times could build much better, sturdier and learn a lesson or two about being a good neighbor, sharing, building strong communities and having pride in local traditions. The people who designed and built these mountain towns used their intelligence to the utmost that they could, using the materials the could. They might be long gone but the homes stand strong today, still protecting the people from wind and intruders if the markets really crash...they can close the cities ancient walled doors and still eat and live well.

 The past isn't always outdated and old fashioned. If anything, if they were able to live centuries like this chances are they knew a thing or two that we don't.  Just my two cents.