Sorrento in un Sospiro

Sorrento in a sigh.

How is it fair that so much of the earths beauty, the wonderful food, culture, sunrise and sunsets are all located on the Amalfi coast? It isn't fair at all. I feel like the entire world should have one little part of it in each country that is like Amalfi: crystal clear water, lemon groves, Mediterranean food, and long days full of sun.

On a quiet morning in Napoli we woke up and decided to go for a little drive around the Amalfi coast. Oh I could kick myself for not being there now! We climbed into our little Fiat, rolled down the windows and sped along the winding paths around the cliffs of the Amalfi mountains.







We were not sure where the car would stop or where we would walk but any place looked beautiful along the coast. We arrived in Vico Equense, paid a small fortune for parking, and set off on foot to see the church, the piazza and the sea whispering below with calming rythmic waves.




Looking at the water I wondered how people living here could possibly be stressed out about little things? This is the most beautiful place I've seen on earth (although I bet there are some nice undiscovered coasts in Thailand) but without pasta or the beautiful towns that cluster like a staircase stepping down the sides of the mountains.


I imagine angels like to dance up and down the staircase towns at night like Ginger Rodgers and Fred Astair.

We continued on to the town of Sorrento, paid another small fortune for parking, and walked down a dark and dank little street, under tunnels and into a back alley full of sleeping pigeons who were startled to be awoken from their nap!

This was not the right destination. A few other unfortunate tourists had followed us and looked at us as if we had deceived them for leading them there.

We walked back then decided to walk on an inclined narrow street thinking it would lead us down to the water.

 We were right! I loved this little port in Sorrento.

Fiat, making out, boats, sand...guess where you are? Sorrento!







 Bed and breakfast if you are looking for one:

You could see how it is still a thriving fish town with the many fishing boats, long folded ropes and stacks of well-used fishing nets. Happy fat cats tip-toed along the fish nets looking here and there for a stray fish or clam that didn't make it out. One little restaurant, Trattoria Emilia, was open and it was just before the official lunch time. It is always good to know that in Italy, people run very precisely by their digestive clock! It helps to schedule the rest of the day if you know that people will be dedicated to the table, devouring food, and that shops will be closed.

The Chef and I looked at each other. "Are you hungry?" we asked in Upper East Coast American terms meaning "Is your stomach making rumbly sounds or are your light headed and in need of nutrition?" Rather than the Italian meaning of "Do you think it is the appropriate time to consume food and coffee whether or not you are hungry?" We looked at each other and decided to be hungry in the Italian sense. Why not? We were in Sorrento! And for Pete's Sake when you know you will be sitting in a dimly lit office every day for the next unforeseeable days of your life you better jump on that opportunity of fried fish in Sorrento! So we felt guilty but snagged a table right next to the water.




It was so worth it. We dined sumptuously on a basket of mixed fried fish and spaghetti con le vongole (Spaghetti with clams).



On the drive home I felt so calm with the sound of the waves and also weaving around the corners of the coast. The sunset with the towns in the distance was so beautiful it broke my heart and I asked myself repeatedly why this place was so special? It makes sense that the Amalfi coast has influenced centuries of writiers, artists and politicians from the age of Greek scholars to now to meditate on its natural beauty.

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